Heidi Trautmann

The Moonscape of Cape Kormakiti

By Heidi Trautmann


Among us friends we often say …‘let us go westward’, either for a bicycle ride or as recently for a long walk, actually to the Northwestern coast of Cyprus, past Kayalar and Sadrazamköy, a village at the end of the world you would think. There is a big tree where the tarmacked road ends and the sand road starts with a map on a board. If you go right you come to a holiday village, the place looks weird, a ghost village in a land called Nowhere.

We did that road years ago by bicycle down to the very end, to the Cape of Kormakitis, where there is a mast and a transceiver station, nothing has changed since. However, we had heard of a marked foot path along the cliff coast where there is nothing but macchia. So we left our cars on the mainroad where this touristic sign is – white-green-white - and walked …walked….over stone and macchia, on our right the sea, so calm after days of storm, around us nothing but moonscape, sandstone carved by water and wind, hollow circles where water stands, it looks as if people from another planet have lived here ages ago, there are marks everywhere…no trees, nothing but sky above us. Weird.

We have to watch our steps, cannot lift our eyes and look around, we stop once in a while, go close to the rim to look down to the water below, nowhere a place for a boat to anchor or find shelter if caught by the wrong wind.

After two hours of slow careful walking through this fascinating nothingness – sea must have covered the place once, who knows, I saw one or two shells, we arrived at a fenced-in place, a sheep shelter I thought – no, a human’s shelter, and we entered invited by a man who stood there and his dogs were barking.  

A shelter made from bamboo and whatever was available, dogs and cats and a row of cages for birds; a place to sleep, tables and benches to sit for him and friends; we were invited to share his meagre lunch on the still warm grill, some green pepper, tomatoes and…chicken stomachs; and he distributed among us fat oranges from his orchard in Güzelyurt. It is his outdoor place, he comes here every day to feed the animals and enjoy the peace, to do some fishing and look out onto the sea. What is he looking out for?

When we left to continue the rough path towards the very end – because it was a must to finish the walking and take a look from the most western point of the island towards Europe in the distance – I looked back and took a picture and saw him standing there and I waved my hand, and he waved back, and he stood there for a long time.



At the Peace shelter
At the Peace shelter

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